Walking the streets of London is like stepping back through time.
Look around and you’ll see elegant Georgian townhouses next to Jacobean buildings that survived the Great Fire of London, ornate Victorian terraces tucked next to ultra-modern high rises.
But what you might not expect to see is water – a lot of water.
The capital has relied on its snaking network of rivers for trading, sanitation and drinking water ever since the Romans first founded Londinium, around 43 AD.
In Victorian times the ‘canal age’ began, when the rivers and tributaries were connected via a series of hand-carved waterways. These London canals allowed supplies to be quickly and easily transported to the burgeoning industries of the North; the potteries, textile companies and coal mines thrived, helping Britain become an industrial superpower.
Thousands of people found work directly as a result of these new waterways, from workers in the now-busy factories, to the barge pilots, to the boys who led the canal boat horses (freight-laden narrowboats were pulled along the waterways by specially trained horses – hence the term we still use today ‘tow paths’).
By 1850 there were nearly 5000 miles of working canals throughout England, but as the decades passed road and rail transport became more popular and use of the London canals and their tributaries began to wane. After World War II the traditional industries that relied on the waterways began to decline, until only 1000 miles of canals remained.
Discarded, many fell into disrepair and it wasn’t until the 1960s that community groups rallied to save these unique slivers of history, meticulously recovering and restoring them, but this time for leisure and recreational use. Now, they’re managed by the Canal & River Trust, which encourages communities and volunteers across England and Wales to transform their neglected canals and rivers into beautiful spaces that promote wildlife and increase wellbeing.
This winding network of waterways is open for the public, who can enjoy a wide range of quintessentially British activities, from narrow boating and canoeing, to fishing and biking or simply wandering the scenic towpaths.
The Grand Union Canal links the capital to the heart of Peaky Blinders territory in Birmingham. Beginning in Paddington Basin, west London, the biggest of the London canals will lead you through villages and industrial towns and right up through the lush green countryside of Colne Valley Regional Park.
Browse the famous Camden Market then take a trip from Camden Lock down Regent’s Canal with The London Waterbus. This scenic cruise passes though leafy North London, and also stops at London Zoo. Alternatively, hire your own boat and navigate Regent’s Canal at your leisure. Pack a picnic lunch, then sit back and enjoy all the delightful sights along the way.
Where the Grand Union Canal meets Regents Canal, you’ll find the surprisingly delightful oasis of Little Venice. This tranquil stretch of water is punctuated with stunning Georgian and Victorian mansions on the canal banks. It’s also home to Brownings Island – the location of several floating businesses, including an art gallery and a hotel, and the home of waterbirds and Egyptian Geese.
If all that exploring makes you hungry, there are many places to eat on and along the London canals, including the Waterside floating café, and the Waterway restaurant, with a large outdoor terrace. Step aboard the Feng Shang, the Chinese restaurant with the celebrity clientele and the charming canal views. Or check out the Narrowboat Pub, overlooking Regent’s Canal, in Islington.
The capital’s waterways are full of surprises, but one of the most delightful is the Puppet Barge. This floating marionette theatre first came to life nearly 40 years ago, and is still captivating children from its 72-foot-long flat-bottomed boot moored in Little Venice.
The Floating Pocket Park is the perfect example of nature colliding with clever engineering. This 730 sq m floating park is located in Paddington Basin on the Grand Union Canal and provides a lush green space that sits atop the water, complete with its own canal boat mooring. The park’s landscapers have meticulously planned and planted the space to create an oasis of nature for people and wildlife alike. In addition to the striking flora and fauna, bird feeders, bug hotels and nesting birds can be found.
For a truly unique experience, take a Skuna Hot Tub cruise. You’ll need a swimsuit and a quirky sense of fun for this one – climb into one of these electric-powered floating hot tubs and you can steer yourself around the City Road Basin (five minutes from Angel and Old Street tube stations). Sit back and enjoy the views from your watery carriage, which is heated to a very pleasant 38 degrees.
Please think about supporting the London Canals and the watery communities around them, as they’ve been badly hit by the pandemic. Alternatively, donate to the Canal & River Trust.
(Photo credits: Little Venice by Faiz Malkani, Camden Market by Javier Martinez, Regents Canal by Oliver Ash, Little Venice by Alex Motoc, all via Unsplash)
